BLOG NUMBER FIFTEEN - KAILAS REVISITED

 REFLECTIONS ON KAILAS MANAS SAROVAR YATRA 1982

Prologue

When I requested the blessings for a smooth Yatra, from my Master, the Late Shri Amabarisha Varmaji, he said “Why do you want to punish your body and go there? Instead, try and bring that atmosphere of Kailas and Manasa around you, wherever you are.” After a pause, he continued- "Anyway, since you have made all the arrangements go, be careful when under Chinese side, don’t talk about Rishis or Gods, do you understand? My protection to you will be there." My obeisance to him.

A group of twenty individuals from various States were assembled at the Foreign Office, North Block, New Delhi, in July 1982, for briefing by the Government Officials about Do’s and Dont’s during the Kailas Manas Sarovar Yatra. This was the second year after 1981, when Chinese Government had opened the passage to Indian Citizens to undertake the holy pilgrimage. I looked around, wanting to mix with my future fellow pilgrims of 6 females and 13 males, young and old, sturdy and not so sturdy. At 28, I was among the few youths, majority were either middle aged or seniors.

One Senior Gentleman caught my eye and beckoned me. He asked me “Are you going to Kailas?”. I said “Yes, and I am coming back” and at that moment he decided we two would make good companions for the entire Yatra. He was around 62 years, clad in silk dhoti and kurta with a walking stick, and was medium built. Seated with his back straight and alone, he looked sharp and very cool at the same time, with a magnetic smile. This Gentleman was none other than Late Shri M N Nambiar, the famous Tamil actor who has acted in hundreds of Tamil movies mostly in the role of a Villain! After the preliminary briefing by the Officials, this small group acquainted itself with each other with warmth.

The week before actual departure from New Delhi, was hectic for final formalities like Medical Check-up, purchases like Tin Food, Dry Fruit rations, warm clothing, windcheaters, Medicines etc, exchange of currency for about 400 dollars (specified by the Chinese, the exchange rate approximately was Rs 9.46 per USD then).

The Journey Begins

On the early morning of Thursday, the 15^th of July 1982, we took our seats in the Mini Bus, in front of UP Tourist Office, Chandralok Building at Janpath. anxious, praying to gods for a smooth Yatra. Shri M N Nambiar announced “Look at Giri, he looks like Adi Shankara!”. We reached Champawat which was about 450 kilometers from Delhi, covered on the same day. Reached Champawat and spent the night at Tourist Rest Home. The next day, Dharchula, being our destination at a distance of 171 KM, the bus wended its way through Lohaghat on the banks of the river Sarayu and we reached Pithoragarh for Lunch. Here we were fortunate in meeting Swami Pranavananda, FRGS, (1896-1989). His original name was Kanakadandi Venkata Somayajul, was a regular visitor to Kailas Manas Sarovar areas since 1928, before the Chinese took over Tibet. He is reported to have done 23 circumambulations of the Holy Mountain Kailas and 25 of Lake Manas Sarovar, 7 of which done in winter when the Lake gets frozen. He was aged 86, had established his ashram at Pithoragarh. He has authored a book “Exploration in Tibet”, published by the University of Kolkata in 1950. Swami blessed us all and give us useful hints for the trek.

We reached Dharchula in the evening, a scenic quaint village located by the side of the mighty river KALI, which naturally divides India and Nepal. We spent the second night at Dharchula till 3 AM to leave for the Tawaghat Road End. After about 20 KM, the bus came to a halt at Tawaghat. From here the 100 KM trek commenced, with shouts like “Jai Bholenath”, “Jai Shambho” lead by the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) guide.

Here the pilgrims had to decide whether they needed the services of a Mule (Kacchar). I opted to walk and enjoy the scenery. After our luggage was loaded onto the mules, we began the trek at about 7 AM, crossing the bridge over the river Dhauliganga and the climb was steep, and we had to reach village Shirka at a distance of 8 KM in the mountains. Tired and exhausted we reached SHIKRA (7400 ft) in the evening, traversing a narrow path which at times was only 3 feet wide. The track was serpentine and slippery at places. We were warmly received by the Camp Manager who provided us frugal hot meals.

The following day involved a 16 KM trek to JIPTI, where the Botiyas speak their local language called Runglu. En route to Jipti we passed through Rungling Top thick forest feared for its Bears, and we get to see the river KALI again, flowing several hundred feet in a gorge with its foaming and dancing waters. We spent the third night at the local rest home for tourists.

On the 4^th day, after breakfast, our trek took us to MALPA, 11 KM away. The mule track was extremely risky, and we had difficulty in trekking. There were several waterfalls on the way. We were warned to be alert for stones that may fall from the mountain top, due to overnight rains. Spent the third night at Malpa’s Tourist Home.

The following morning, we started for BUDDI (9100 ft) which involved a climb of over 3000 feet up from Malpa and here all of us felt for the first time, the real chill of the Himalayan cold. We now could see in the far distance the snow-clad mountains and glaciers on the Nepalese side. The PWD Rest House here was a two-room building with a beautiful garden and wonderful scenery all around. Went to bed early after a long climb, the whole day, with the entire body aching.

GUNJI is a beautiful small village at a distance of 17 KM from Buddi, with the first four KM was the usual steep one, rest pathways winding around mountain after mountain, at times at a level with the river or several hundred feet above it. As the tracks were slippery due to heavy rains the previous night, all of us huddled together, helped each other to reach the next camp. As before the people from each village gazed upon us, total strangers with different physiques, colours, and heights! One can leave his or her valuables, money, watch, ornaments, etc in broad daylight on the side of the track and no one dares even consider stealing them, for they believe that the gods are always watching their actions. Moreover, they have no use for money at those heights and terrain.

The females select the male for a husband. All domestic and field work is mainly done by the females here in villages, who go about singing their folk songs, with long conical baskets tied behind their backs, cracking jokes, with laughter among themselves. Of course, one another sound we heard all through was the pleasant sound of tiny bells tied to the Mules, Horses, Kacchar and Yaks in the plains. Casteism was practised and all disputes settled at the village level itself, no Police Stations, No Jails, No Courts here.

The ITBP would be in charge of the pilgrims up to Lipu Lekh Pass from Gunji, instead of the hitherto services of the   Uttar Pradesh Special Police Force. The ITBP were very helpful and conducted the prescribed daily medical check-up to all batchmates before leaving Gunji. On the morning of the 6^th day, we all set out walking towards KALAPANI along with the ITBP personnel, involving a steep climb of over 2500 feet and a few in the group experienced breathing problems, here. A small jungle of Pine Trees on the valley and huge rocks added to a splendid view all around. After an early buffet meal, all got into the tents provided to leave for NABHIDONG, closer to Lipu Lekh Pass, the point of entry into Tibet, occupied by China. From Kalapani to Lipu Lekh (over 17000 ft) it was about 14 KM.

In the early hours of 8^th day after the commencement of Trek, we started off at 4 AM to climb about 2500 feet in darkness and total silence to get to the Lipu Lekh Pass. Reached the Pass IST 9.30 AM and were relieved to discover that the third batch was ready to return to India.  This exit from Tibet and entry into Tibet is simultaneously managed by the ITBP at the Mountain Cliff that is Lipu Lekh Pass.

The weather at the Pass is extremely unpredictable with -4 or -5 degrees Celsius and extremely cold. One cannot stand still at this Pass due to severe cold. The weather gets worse and the best time to exit/enter is early morning at this Pass.

The ITBP standing at Cliff, wished us all success for the China stay and the ITBP was not permitted to accompany us all down the mountain to ground level, where the Chinese were waiting for us. Left to ourselves, all of us had difficulty in descending the mountain side, at times sinking into loose snow, waist-deep, struggling to descend safely.

Due to Lord Shiva’s grace, nothing untoward happened here. With the assistance of Chinese coolies, all landed down from the cliff top to Tibetan ground! And to be under Chinese control till we get back onto the top of the Pass after visit.

Mounting on lazy horses, all of us began our journey to Takklakot, a 20 KM ride on Tibetan plateau, and reached it in the evening. We were received by a young Chinese girl, fluent in English, deputed for assisting pilgrims. Custom regulations were read out, followed by thorough luggage check, forms filled to amount of forex carried, declaration about camera, binoculars, rings, chains, ornaments etc. All this completed, they took our Passports to be returned later. Only after all these, we were shown to our lodgings containing 3 or 5 beds in each room with clean quilts, bedsheets, containing TV sets probably CCTV showing Chinese acrobatics, dances, concerts. The following day we were asked to exchange 300 USD into Yuan.

We were made to spend two nights at Takklakot, once a vibrant Trade Route Town on the ancient Silk Route, with its mud buildings, a few shops selling a few mementos, pillowcases, sheets. We could not speak freely with the local Tibetan population as we felt we were under 24-hour surveillance.

Finally, on the 26^th of July 1982, having divided ourselves into 2 batches of 11 and 9 in each, loaded our luggage into the military truck which had no seating arrangement, the group members were tossed against one another as we had to sit on its floor, and started off to Manas Sarovar, which was about 80 KM away. The batch which had 11 (including self) opted to get dropped at Manasa Sarovar Base Camp and accordingly, the truck reached this Base Camp after a two-hour drive by the side of the equally stunning and immaculate Rakshas Tal lake, on its banks, Dashanana, the Ravana is believed to have done penance to propitiate Lord Shiva and the distant Gurla Mandhata Mountain Range enveloped in snow.

Quickly getting down from the Truck, all of us were overjoyed to witness the exceedingly serene and fantastic Lake in front of us. Tears of Joy rolled down in most cheeks of the group. On my part I went and sobbed like a small child, overcome with emotion to realise that we finally reached the Holy spot after back breaking, grueling trek, which was extremely hazardous, ran to and tightly hugged Shri M N Nambiar, and I took a long time to become normal. He patted my back and said, "Shut Up, what has happened now, to cry like this?"

It was 8.30 AM IST (local time there was 11 AM) and the Holy Lake looked like a mini ocean. According to a Hindi couplet: “Who can approach Manasa Sarovar, where snow falls without clouds”, the visual scenery here was simply divine, out of this world! The blue shimmering waters looked crystal clear surrounded by ice-clad peaks in the distance. One wondered where the waters stopped, where land commenced and where snow stopped – all seemed merged! The clouds above were pure white in colour, a few mountains whose peaks only were filled with snow, looked blood red and the waters of the lake shining blue with the Sun in the deep blue sky! What a grand riot of Colours by mother Nature, they were!

One can behold the full grandeur of Nature in all its pristine purity, sanctity in this rarefied atmosphere, glorious and awesome. No words can describe the area and do justice. The Holy Lake was huge with dimensions of 9 by 12 miles at a height of about 16500 feet. With stupendous silence all around, one could see for several kilometers at any moving object. It is believed that at its center, it is 300 feet deep gets frozen in winter with thick ice and one can walk on it when frozen.  In the afternoons, the Lake’s surface seems to be strewn with millions of diamonds glittering over the water. And as the evening advances, the waters turn into emerald green and jet black at night with its gentle waves splashing all around, with a lateral view of 4 to 5 feet, filled with pebbles small stones of different shapes. The Waves would stop splashing at times and start again after a pause.

On the evening of the third day, we were treated with a great spectacle by Nature. On the left corner of the Lake, we noticed a bunch of big, dark rain-bearing clouds in the shape of a huge wall, slowly and majestically moving over the Holy Lake. Next to these clouds, there began to form a gigantic Rainbow with both of its ends over the surface of the Lake, splendid in all its colours and to the extreme right we observed the Gurla Mandhata range in yellow colour as if the Sun were still shining only to light up the peaks and to add to the beauty of the moment. What threatened to be a dreadful night with rain, passed off with only intense winds lashing out at our tent. One can experience all the seasons here at Manas Sarovar Kailas area within 24 hours. There could be scorching heat, replaced without warning by heavy rain, severe cold, followed by unruly wind and heat again!

At afternoons when there was a little sunshine, we took a dip in the Holy Lake, only to get out of it quickly to dry ourselves from the cold waters. There was tiny brown fish measuring 10 to 12 inches, jumping in and out of the Lake. On each morning of the four day stay at the Camp, all of us went out for long walks for several kilometers along its shore, return to bathe and lunch or simply sit in front of the Lake, watching its serenity and beauty, with surrounding silence, as though transported to another planet.

From our camp site, we could the conical shape of the peak of Holy Kailas which was at least 20 KM away. The Holy Mountain though far away is seen reflected in the waters of the Holy Lake. The Chinese Truck arrived to ferry us to Kailas Camp at Tarchen and bring the 9 other members of the group back after their parikrama of Mt Kailas to Manasa Sarovar Camp. Eagerly boarding the Truck, after an hour’s drive the group got reunited after a brief duration. We had to wait at Tarchen for horses until the following morning for circumambulation of the Holy Mountain for those who had opted for horses. A two-day time was available to do the parikrama, a 52 KM gruelling trek around the Holy Mountain.

The first day’s trek was a simple one, walking through the great Valleys surrounding the Holy Mountain, a little far away from it. We had to stick to the instructions of the Chinese accompanying soldiers, one could not keep a step outside the path, break away from the fellow pilgrims, attempt to go near the Mountain etc. This Parikrama is done to at least three other mountains as well surrounding the Holy Mountain! Most of the time the peak of Holy Kailas seems covered by the Clouds, as though hiding it from the visitors. Night halt was made in the cramped tent quarters at Darapok or Dorpok. An elderly Tibetan received us and pointed out the beddings for us inside the tent.  One can see the Holy peak clearly like a half-blown lotus, with black stone and fabulous white snow.

The following day our difficult climb to the “Dolma La Pass” began at 3 a.m. with extreme cold and howling wind. After about six hours of trek, we came across the Tibetan prayer boulder, onto which the Tibetans and Buddhists tie their colourful flags along with the currencies of China, Nepal and others, pasted onto the stone. One is closest to the Holy Mountain, at this point. While the Hindus believe the Holy Mountain to be the abode of Lord Shiva, the Buddhists believe that Lord Buddha is living in a golden palace in the mountain.

Many flourishing Monasteries on the banks of Manasa Sarovar where the Pilgrims were welcomed and given food and shelter by the Buddhist Monks were destroyed by the Chinese in the late 1950s and one could see ruins of the then Gompas and Monasteries.

After prayers at Dolma La, we began our steep descent, crossing thick ice at some long stretches from about 18000 feet and as we made progress, our Tibetan guide pointed out to us another sacred spot- Gowri Kund. From the Mountain top we were descending, Gowri Kund looked splendid, emerald green in colour and surrounded by ice and mountain, all around. Devi Parvati, the divine consort of Lord Shiva is believed to have taken Her bath in its waters before the wedding with Lord Shiva. It was a splendid sight to spy perennial water at that altitude!

The Weather was bright and sunny. It suddenly turned cloudy and instantly it began to rain heavily, without any warning. Thoroughly drenched, we marched on, there was no shelter to stop except for mountains and great valleys before us. Late evening, we reached Tarchen and gave rest to our tired bodies.

The Chinese Truck came and took us to Manasa Sarovar Camp, where the rest of the 9 pilgrims also got into the Truck and we proceeded towards Takklakot. Here, we spent two nights, relaxing watching the Chinese dances for those interested in a separate hall.

After the two nights, we were awakened by the Chinese a little after midnight (12.30 am local, IST 2 am) to get ready to leave on horseback to reach Lipu Lekh Pass. Earlier our luggage check was done by the Chinese and the same was despatched by Yaks to the Pass, the previous day.

It was a beautiful blessing from Mother Nature that we had clear bright moonlight on 04.08.1982 at the commencement of the horse riding from Takklakot. After taking leave of the Chinese lady and other officials, a four-hour journey brought us to near two-kilometer, below the mountain cliff, below the Pass.  As there was little time available before climbing up to the Pass, we all 20 took good rest and waited for a signal to start the return to our own motherland!

When the signal came, we dismounted from the horses, the dreaded climb over loose snow began over to the top of Lipu Lekh, where the ITBP personnel were eagerly awaiting our reaching the Top. Here, it was a sheer individual’s will and strength to reach the Top. I mean, no one was able to assist another in attempting to climb safely and most risky place is this, fraught with fear, cold and left to oneself.

On the 21^st day  after entering Tibet, we were back and safe at Lipu Lekh at last! I knelt down and thanked all gods as I was back in India! We wished all good luck to the 5^th batch, waiting to go down the Pass, on to the waiting Chinese, below. Leaving the -5 degree cold of the Pass, we quickly began our sojourn back to Tawaghat, trekking around mountain after mountain, with ascending and descending altitudes ranging from 5000 feet to 10000 feet, an average of about 12 KM walk in the mountains each day, on the same terrain in return.

The Heavenly scenery, the play of Nature in giving one, all the seasons in 24 Hours, pristine atmosphere, the milk-white glaciers, long stretches of thick snow on which we tread, verdant forests, unbridled risky narrow pathways, the roaring rivers, the simple locals, the sound of  bells tied to the animals, the ethereal silence, the hoary legends, the dedicated service given by the KMVN/UP Police/BSF/ITBP/Tibetan Guides etc, the fellowship of the co-pilgrims – all these make the pilgrimage a lifetime experience!  The earth which was filled with only mountains, rock and snow was suddenly flat again! We seemed to have reluctantly returned to the so-called Civilisation and back to our old lives.

Epilogue

The Minibus wended its way from the Tawaghat Road Head back to New Delhi via Pithogarh and after exchanging addresses, we all said goodbye to each other, feeling extremely emotional that we had to part company again in front of Chandralok Building, Janpath.

In the mountains, water being scare, with no daily bathing, exposed to high temperatures, scarce boarding and lodging, physical hardship, I seemed to have had lost a few kilograms in weight and fortunately my family welcomed me back. I was personally carrying two, ten litres of water from the Holy Lake, storing it next to my bed on return journey as I was warned that the Kacchar Wallahs may steal it away at night.

Return journey by train to Bangalore from New Delhi began.  The fellow passengers were wondering why I had not opened either of the two 10 litre capacity, filled with water all through the journey. When the train was nearing Bangalore, their curiosity could not continue anymore and enquired from me what the two cans contained! When I replied it was sacred water from the Holy Lake, they could not believe me and requested a few drops and began pressing my legs, back as was their custom. So, we opened one and whoever wanted it, was given generous quantity and the rest was distributed to many relatives and friends and neighbours, after return to Bangalore on 22.08.1982.

Thus ended my life’s greatest Yatra to Kailas and Manas, where one’s Ego automatically becomes small in front of the Holy Mountain and the Lake Manas, the Swimming Pool of the Gods.

Lokah Samastha Sukhino Bhavantu

Bangalore

21.07.2021

 

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