REFLECTIONS ON KAILAS MANAS SAROVAR YATRA 1982
Prologue
When I requested the blessings
for a smooth Yatra, from my Master, the Late Shri Amabarisha Varmaji, he said “Why
do you want to punish your body and go there? Instead, try and bring that
atmosphere of Kailas and Manasa around you, wherever you are.” After a pause,
he continued- "Anyway, since you have made all the arrangements go, be careful
when under Chinese side, don’t talk about Rishis or Gods, do you understand? My
protection to you will be there." My obeisance to him.
A group of twenty individuals
from various States were assembled at the Foreign Office, North Block, New
Delhi, in July 1982, for briefing by the Government Officials about Do’s and
Dont’s during the Kailas Manas Sarovar Yatra. This was the second year after
1981, when Chinese Government had opened the passage to Indian Citizens to
undertake the holy pilgrimage. I looked around, wanting to mix with my future
fellow pilgrims of 6 females and 13 males, young and old, sturdy and not so
sturdy. At 28, I was among the few youths, majority were either middle aged or
seniors.
One Senior Gentleman caught my
eye and beckoned me. He asked me “Are you going to Kailas?”. I said “Yes, and I
am coming back” and at that moment he decided we two would make good companions
for the entire Yatra. He was around 62 years, clad in silk dhoti and kurta with
a walking stick, and was medium built. Seated with his back straight and alone,
he looked sharp and very cool at the same time, with a magnetic smile. This
Gentleman was none other than Late Shri M N Nambiar, the famous Tamil actor who
has acted in hundreds of Tamil movies mostly in the role of a Villain! After
the preliminary briefing by the Officials, this small group acquainted itself
with each other with warmth.
The
week before actual departure from New Delhi, was hectic for final formalities
like Medical Check-up, purchases like Tin Food, Dry Fruit rations, warm
clothing, windcheaters, Medicines etc, exchange of currency for about 400
dollars (specified by the Chinese, the exchange rate approximately was Rs
9.46 per USD then).
The Journey Begins
On the early morning of Thursday,
the 15th of July 1982, we took our seats in the Mini Bus, in front
of UP Tourist Office, Chandralok Building at Janpath. anxious, praying to gods
for a smooth Yatra. Shri M N Nambiar announced “Look at Giri, he looks like Adi
Shankara!”. We reached Champawat which was about 450 kilometers from Delhi,
covered on the same day. Reached Champawat and spent the night at Tourist Rest
Home. The next day, Dharchula, being our destination at a distance of 171 KM,
the bus wended its way through Lohaghat on the banks of the river Sarayu and we
reached Pithoragarh for Lunch. Here we were fortunate in meeting Swami
Pranavananda, FRGS, (1896-1989). His original name was Kanakadandi Venkata
Somayajul, was a regular visitor to Kailas Manas Sarovar areas since 1928,
before the Chinese took over Tibet. He is reported to have done 23
circumambulations of the Holy Mountain Kailas and 25 of Lake Manas Sarovar, 7
of which done in winter when the Lake gets frozen. He was aged 86, had
established his ashram at Pithoragarh. He has authored a book “Exploration in
Tibet”, published by the University of Kolkata in 1950. Swami blessed us all
and give us useful hints for the trek.
We reached Dharchula in the
evening, a scenic quaint village located by the side of the mighty river KALI,
which naturally divides India and Nepal. We spent the second night at Dharchula
till 3 AM to leave for the Tawaghat Road End. After about 20 KM, the bus came
to a halt at Tawaghat. From here the 100 KM trek commenced, with shouts like
“Jai Bholenath”, “Jai Shambho” lead by the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN)
guide.
Here the pilgrims had to
decide whether they needed the services of a Mule (Kacchar). I opted to walk
and enjoy the scenery. After our luggage was loaded onto the mules, we began
the trek at about 7 AM, crossing the bridge over the river Dhauliganga and the
climb was steep, and we had to reach village Shirka at a distance of 8 KM in
the mountains. Tired and exhausted we reached SHIKRA (7400 ft) in the evening,
traversing a narrow path which at times was only 3 feet wide. The track was
serpentine and slippery at places. We were warmly received by the Camp Manager
who provided us frugal hot meals.
The following day involved a
16 KM trek to JIPTI, where the Botiyas speak their local language called
Runglu. En route to Jipti we passed through Rungling Top thick forest feared for
its Bears, and we get to see the river KALI again, flowing several hundred feet
in a gorge with its foaming and dancing waters. We spent the third night at the
local rest home for tourists.
On the 4th day,
after breakfast, our trek took us to MALPA, 11 KM away. The mule track was
extremely risky, and we had difficulty in trekking. There were several
waterfalls on the way. We were warned to be alert for stones that may fall from the mountain top, due to overnight rains. Spent the third night at Malpa’s Tourist
Home.
The following morning, we
started for BUDDI (9100 ft) which involved a climb of over 3000 feet up from
Malpa and here all of us felt for the first time, the real chill of the
Himalayan cold. We now could see in the far distance the snow-clad mountains and
glaciers on the Nepalese side. The PWD Rest House here was a two-room building
with a beautiful garden and wonderful scenery all around. Went to bed early
after a long climb, the whole day, with the entire body aching.
GUNJI is a beautiful small
village at a distance of 17 KM from Buddi, with the first four KM was the usual
steep one, rest pathways winding around mountain after mountain, at times at a
level with the river or several hundred feet above it. As the tracks were
slippery due to heavy rains the previous night, all of us huddled together,
helped each other to reach the next camp. As before the people from each village
gazed upon us, total strangers with different physiques, colours, and heights! One
can leave his or her valuables, money, watch, ornaments, etc in broad daylight
on the side of the track and no one dares even consider stealing them, for they
believe that the gods are always watching their actions. Moreover, they have no
use for money at those heights and terrain.
The females select the male
for a husband. All domestic and field work is mainly done by the females here
in villages, who go about singing their folk songs, with long conical baskets
tied behind their backs, cracking jokes, with laughter among themselves. Of
course, one another sound we heard all through was the pleasant sound of tiny
bells tied to the Mules, Horses, Kacchar and Yaks in the plains. Casteism was
practised and all disputes settled at the village level itself, no Police
Stations, No Jails, No Courts here.
The ITBP would be in charge of
the pilgrims up to Lipu Lekh Pass from Gunji, instead of the hitherto services
of the Uttar Pradesh Special Police
Force. The ITBP were very helpful and conducted the prescribed daily medical check-up
to all batchmates before leaving Gunji. On the morning of the 6th day,
we all set out walking towards KALAPANI along with the ITBP personnel,
involving a steep climb of over 2500 feet and a few in the group experienced
breathing problems, here. A small jungle of Pine Trees on the valley and huge
rocks added to a splendid view all around. After an early buffet meal, all got
into the tents provided to leave for NABHIDONG, closer to Lipu Lekh Pass, the
point of entry into Tibet, occupied by China. From Kalapani to Lipu Lekh (over
17000 ft) it was about 14 KM.
In the early hours of 8th
day after the commencement of Trek, we started off at 4 AM to climb about 2500
feet in darkness and total silence to get to the Lipu Lekh Pass. Reached the
Pass IST 9.30 AM and were relieved to discover that the third batch was ready
to return to India. This exit from Tibet
and entry into Tibet is simultaneously managed by the ITBP at the Mountain
Cliff that is Lipu Lekh Pass.
The weather at the Pass is
extremely unpredictable with -4 or -5 degrees Celsius and extremely cold. One
cannot stand still at this Pass due to severe cold. The weather gets worse and the best time to exit/enter is early morning at this Pass.
The ITBP standing at Cliff,
wished us all success for the China stay and the ITBP was not permitted to
accompany us all down the mountain to ground level, where the Chinese were
waiting for us. Left to ourselves, all of us had difficulty in descending the
mountain side, at times sinking into loose snow, waist-deep, struggling to
descend safely.
Due to Lord Shiva’s grace,
nothing untoward happened here. With the assistance of Chinese coolies, all
landed down from the cliff top to Tibetan ground! And to be under Chinese control
till we get back onto the top of the Pass after visit.
Mounting on lazy horses, all
of us began our journey to Takklakot, a 20 KM ride on Tibetan plateau, and reached
it in the evening. We were received by a young Chinese girl, fluent in English,
deputed for assisting pilgrims. Custom regulations were read out, followed by
thorough luggage check, forms filled to amount of forex carried, declaration
about camera, binoculars, rings, chains, ornaments etc. All this completed,
they took our Passports to be returned later. Only after all these, we were
shown to our lodgings containing 3 or 5 beds in each room with clean quilts,
bedsheets, containing TV sets probably CCTV showing Chinese acrobatics, dances,
concerts. The following day we were asked to exchange 300 USD into Yuan.
We were made to spend two
nights at Takklakot, once a vibrant Trade Route Town on the ancient Silk Route,
with its mud buildings, a few shops selling a few mementos, pillowcases,
sheets. We could not speak freely with the local Tibetan population as we felt
we were under 24-hour surveillance.
Finally, on the 26th
of July 1982, having divided ourselves into 2 batches of 11 and 9 in each,
loaded our luggage into the military truck which had no seating arrangement,
the group members were tossed against one another as we had to sit on its
floor, and started off to Manas Sarovar, which was about 80 KM away. The batch
which had 11 (including self) opted to get dropped at Manasa Sarovar Base Camp
and accordingly, the truck reached this Base Camp after a two-hour drive by the
side of the equally stunning and immaculate Rakshas Tal lake, on its banks,
Dashanana, the Ravana is believed to have done penance to propitiate Lord Shiva
and the distant Gurla Mandhata Mountain Range enveloped in snow.
Quickly getting down from the
Truck, all of us were overjoyed to witness the exceedingly serene and fantastic
Lake in front of us. Tears of Joy rolled down in most cheeks of the group. On
my part I went and sobbed like a small child, overcome with emotion to realise
that we finally reached the Holy spot after back breaking, grueling trek,
which was extremely hazardous, ran to and tightly hugged Shri M N Nambiar, and
I took a long time to become normal. He patted my back and said, "Shut Up, what
has happened now, to cry like this?"
It was 8.30 AM IST (local time
there was 11 AM) and the Holy Lake looked like a mini ocean. According to a
Hindi couplet: “Who can approach Manasa Sarovar, where snow falls without
clouds”, the visual scenery here was simply divine, out of this world! The blue
shimmering waters looked crystal clear surrounded by ice-clad peaks in the
distance. One wondered where the waters stopped, where land commenced and where
snow stopped – all seemed merged! The clouds above were pure white in colour, a
few mountains whose peaks only were filled with snow, looked blood red and the
waters of the lake shining blue with the Sun in the deep blue sky! What a grand
riot of Colours by mother Nature, they were!
One can behold the full
grandeur of Nature in all its pristine purity, sanctity in this rarefied
atmosphere, glorious and awesome. No words can describe the area and do
justice. The Holy Lake was huge with dimensions of 9 by 12 miles at a height of
about 16500 feet. With stupendous silence all around, one could see for several
kilometers at any moving object. It is believed that at its center, it is 300
feet deep gets frozen in winter with thick ice and one can walk on it when
frozen. In the afternoons, the Lake’s
surface seems to be strewn with millions of diamonds glittering over the water.
And as the evening advances, the waters turn into emerald green and jet black at
night with its gentle waves splashing all around, with a lateral view of 4 to 5
feet, filled with pebbles small stones of different shapes. The Waves would
stop splashing at times and start again after a pause.
On the evening of the third
day, we were treated with a great spectacle by Nature. On the left corner of the Lake,
we noticed a bunch of big, dark rain-bearing clouds in the shape of a huge
wall, slowly and majestically moving over the Holy Lake. Next to these clouds,
there began to form a gigantic Rainbow with both of its ends over the surface
of the Lake, splendid in all its colours and to the extreme right we observed
the Gurla Mandhata range in yellow colour as if the Sun were still shining only
to light up the peaks and to add to the beauty of the moment. What threatened
to be a dreadful night with rain, passed off with only intense winds lashing
out at our tent. One can experience all the seasons here at Manas Sarovar
Kailas area within 24 hours. There could be scorching heat, replaced without
warning by heavy rain, severe cold, followed by unruly wind and heat again!
At afternoons when there was a
little sunshine, we took a dip in the Holy Lake, only to get out of it quickly
to dry ourselves from the cold waters. There was tiny brown fish measuring 10
to 12 inches, jumping in and out of the Lake. On each morning of the four day
stay at the Camp, all of us went out for long walks for several kilometers
along its shore, return to bathe and lunch or simply sit in front of the Lake,
watching its serenity and beauty, with surrounding silence, as though
transported to another planet.
From our camp site, we could
the conical shape of the peak of Holy Kailas which was at least 20 KM away. The
Holy Mountain though far away is seen reflected in the waters of the Holy Lake.
The Chinese Truck arrived to ferry us to Kailas Camp at Tarchen and bring the 9
other members of the group back after their parikrama of Mt Kailas to Manasa
Sarovar Camp. Eagerly boarding the Truck, after an hour’s drive the group got
reunited after a brief duration. We had to wait at Tarchen for horses until the
following morning for circumambulation of the Holy Mountain for those who had
opted for horses. A two-day time was available to do the parikrama, a 52 KM
gruelling trek around the Holy Mountain.
The first day’s trek was a
simple one, walking through the great Valleys surrounding the Holy Mountain, a
little far away from it. We had to stick to the instructions of the Chinese
accompanying soldiers, one could not keep a step outside the path, break away
from the fellow pilgrims, attempt to go near the Mountain etc. This Parikrama
is done to at least three other mountains as well surrounding the Holy
Mountain! Most of the time the peak of Holy Kailas seems covered by the Clouds,
as though hiding it from the visitors. Night halt was made in the cramped tent
quarters at Darapok or Dorpok. An elderly Tibetan received us and pointed out
the beddings for us inside the tent. One
can see the Holy peak clearly like a half-blown lotus, with black stone and
fabulous white snow.
The following day our
difficult climb to the “Dolma La Pass” began at 3 a.m. with extreme cold and
howling wind. After about six hours of trek, we came across the Tibetan prayer
boulder, onto which the Tibetans and Buddhists tie their colourful flags along
with the currencies of China, Nepal and others, pasted onto the stone. One is closest
to the Holy Mountain, at this point. While the Hindus believe the Holy Mountain
to be the abode of Lord Shiva, the Buddhists believe that Lord Buddha is
living in a golden palace in the mountain.
Many flourishing Monasteries on
the banks of Manasa Sarovar where the Pilgrims were welcomed and given food and
shelter by the Buddhist Monks were destroyed by the Chinese in the late 1950s and
one could see ruins of the then Gompas and Monasteries.
After prayers at Dolma La, we
began our steep descent, crossing thick ice at some long stretches from about
18000 feet and as we made progress, our Tibetan guide pointed out to us another
sacred spot- Gowri Kund. From the Mountain top we were descending, Gowri Kund
looked splendid, emerald green in colour and surrounded by ice and mountain,
all around. Devi Parvati, the divine consort of Lord Shiva is believed to have
taken Her bath in its waters before the wedding with Lord Shiva. It was a splendid
sight to spy perennial water at that altitude!
The Weather was bright and
sunny. It suddenly turned cloudy and instantly it began to rain heavily,
without any warning. Thoroughly drenched, we marched on, there was no shelter
to stop except for mountains and great valleys before us. Late evening, we reached
Tarchen and gave rest to our tired bodies.
The Chinese Truck came and
took us to Manasa Sarovar Camp, where the rest of the 9 pilgrims also got into
the Truck and we proceeded towards Takklakot. Here, we spent two nights,
relaxing watching the Chinese dances for those interested in a separate hall.
After the two nights, we were
awakened by the Chinese a little after midnight (12.30 am local, IST 2 am) to
get ready to leave on horseback to reach Lipu Lekh Pass. Earlier our luggage
check was done by the Chinese and the same was despatched by Yaks to the Pass,
the previous day.
It was a beautiful blessing
from Mother Nature that we had clear bright moonlight on 04.08.1982 at the
commencement of the horse riding from Takklakot. After taking leave of the Chinese
lady and other officials, a four-hour journey brought us to near two-kilometer,
below the mountain cliff, below the Pass. As there was little time available before
climbing up to the Pass, we all 20 took good rest and waited for a signal to
start the return to our own motherland!
When the signal came, we
dismounted from the horses, the dreaded climb over loose snow began over to the
top of Lipu Lekh, where the ITBP personnel were eagerly awaiting our reaching
the Top. Here, it was a sheer individual’s will and strength to reach the Top.
I mean, no one was able to assist another in attempting to climb safely and
most risky place is this, fraught with fear, cold and left to oneself.
On the 21st day after entering Tibet, we were back and safe at Lipu Lekh at last! I knelt down
and thanked all gods as I was back in India! We wished all good luck to the 5th
batch, waiting to go down the Pass, on to the waiting Chinese, below. Leaving
the -5 degree cold of the Pass, we quickly began our sojourn back to Tawaghat,
trekking around mountain after mountain, with ascending and descending altitudes
ranging from 5000 feet to 10000 feet, an average of about 12 KM walk in the
mountains each day, on the same terrain in return.
The Heavenly scenery, the play of
Nature in giving one, all the seasons in 24 Hours, pristine atmosphere, the
milk-white glaciers, long stretches of thick snow on which we tread, verdant
forests, unbridled risky narrow pathways, the roaring rivers, the simple
locals, the sound of bells tied to the
animals, the ethereal silence, the hoary legends, the dedicated service given
by the KMVN/UP Police/BSF/ITBP/Tibetan Guides etc, the fellowship of the
co-pilgrims – all these make the pilgrimage a lifetime experience! The earth which was filled with only
mountains, rock and snow was suddenly flat again! We seemed to have reluctantly
returned to the so-called Civilisation and back to our old lives.
Epilogue
The Minibus wended its way
from the Tawaghat Road Head back to New Delhi via Pithogarh and after
exchanging addresses, we all said goodbye to each other, feeling extremely
emotional that we had to part company again in front of Chandralok Building,
Janpath.
In the mountains, water being
scare, with no daily bathing, exposed to high temperatures, scarce boarding and
lodging, physical hardship, I seemed to have had lost a few kilograms in weight
and fortunately my family welcomed me back. I was personally carrying two, ten litres
of water from the Holy Lake, storing it next to my bed on return journey as I
was warned that the Kacchar Wallahs may steal it away at night.
Return journey by train to
Bangalore from New Delhi began. The
fellow passengers were wondering why I had not opened either of the two 10 litre
capacity, filled with water all through the journey. When the train was nearing
Bangalore, their curiosity could not continue anymore and enquired from me what
the two cans contained! When I replied it was sacred water from the Holy Lake,
they could not believe me and requested a few drops and began pressing my
legs, back as was their custom. So, we opened one and whoever wanted it, was
given generous quantity and the rest was distributed to many relatives and
friends and neighbours, after return to Bangalore on 22.08.1982.
Thus ended my life’s greatest
Yatra to Kailas and Manas, where one’s Ego automatically becomes small in front
of the Holy Mountain and the Lake Manas, the Swimming Pool of the Gods.
Lokah Samastha Sukhino
Bhavantu
Bangalore
21.07.2021
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